Shanghai
The Bund at blue hour, a Pudong rooftop, and the lane kitchens of the former French Concession after the tour buses leave.
Shanghai is the easiest skyline in Asia to photograph badly. Everyone shoots the same frame from the same twelve metres of the Bund promenade at the same moment, then goes to dinner.
We start on the Pudong side instead — looking back at the colonial waterfront while the towers behind you light up — then cross on the public ferry, not the tourist boat. The ferry costs two yuan and runs until eleven. It is the best two yuan in the city.
Pudong rooftop
A west-facing terrace above the river. One drink, and the whole Bund turns on across the water while you are standing there.
The ferry
Two yuan, eight minutes, open deck. The crossing every guidebook skips because it is not a cruise.
Lane kitchens
Three stops in the former French Concession — a wonton window, a cold-dish counter, and a place that only does one noodle.
Jazz cellar
A basement room that has been running the same Tuesday set for nineteen years.
