Hong Kong
Star Ferry, a Kowloon dai pai dong, and the mid-levels escalator running the wrong way.
Hong Kong at night is vertical in a way photographs flatten. The trick is to keep changing altitude: harbour level, then mid-levels, then a rooftop, then back down to a street kitchen under a housing block.
We do not go up the Peak. It is a fine view and a ninety-minute queue for it, and the same skyline reads better from the Kowloon side for the price of a ferry ticket.
Kowloon waterfront
The skyline everyone means when they say Hong Kong, from the side you can actually see it.
Star Ferry
Upper deck, harbour crossing, under five Hong Kong dollars.
Dai pai dong
Open-air street kitchen under a housing estate. Clay pot rice and the loudest wok in the district.
Mid-levels
Up the escalator, into the bar lanes, out again before it turns into a queue.
