Osaka
Dotonbori neon, a standing bar in Shinsekai, and kushikatsu with the no-double-dip rule.
Osaka is the least self-conscious night city in Japan. Dotonbori is loud and lit like a pinball machine and completely unbothered about it, which is exactly why it works.
We eat standing up more than sitting down. The kushikatsu rule — one dip in the communal sauce, never two — is enforced by the entire room, and watching a first-timer learn it is part of the evening.
Dotonbori canal
The neon everyone photographs, from the bridge that is not the crowded one.
Kushikatsu
Fried skewers, communal sauce, one dip only. The rule is real.
Shinsekai standing bars
No seats, cheap highballs, conversations with strangers.
Late ramen
The bowl that ends the night, at a counter that opens when the offices close.



